Merino wool is used by more high-end menswear brands than almost any other natural fibre. But regular wool is much cheaper and much more widely available. Understanding the practical difference — and whether the premium is justified for your use case — is useful before buying any wool knitwear.
What Makes Merino Different From Regular Wool
Standard wool comes primarily from Corriedale, Romney, or similar breeds and has a fibre diameter typically between 25 and 35 microns. At this thickness, wool fibres are coarse enough to cause the scratching sensation that many people associate with wool clothing. This is a genuine physical response: fibres above approximately 20 microns will poke into the skin and trigger a nerve response, not an allergy.
Merino wool comes from Merino sheep, primarily bred in Australia and New Zealand, and has a fibre diameter between 15 and 24 microns depending on grade. The finer the micron count, the softer the garment. Ultra-fine Merino (below 17.5 microns) is genuinely soft against bare skin for most people. Standard Merino (18 to 22 microns) is significantly softer than regular wool and suitable for most uses including next-to-skin wear.
Temperature Regulation
Merino wool is naturally temperature-regulating in a way that cotton is not. The fibre structure absorbs moisture vapour from the skin before it becomes liquid sweat, and releases it into the air, which keeps the wearer comfortable across a wider temperature range. In practice, a merino knit works as a mid-layer in winter and as a standalone layer in cool weather, where a cotton knit would only work in a narrower range.
This temperature regulation is why merino is used in technical outdoor clothing (base layers for skiing, hiking, and climbing) as well as in fashion knitwear. The functional properties are the same whether the garment is designed for athletic or everyday use.
Durability and Care
The most common concern about merino is durability. The finer the fibre, the more prone it is to pilling (small balls of fibre forming on the surface from friction) and to damage from abrasion. This is a real trade-off: ultra-fine merino will pill faster than a heavier garment, and it requires more careful washing than cotton.
The practical answer is to choose a merino weight appropriate for the intended use. For knitwear worn over other garments (a cardigan or overshirt), mid-gauge merino in the 250 to 350gsm range is more durable and will hold up to regular wear. For base layers or garments worn against skin, fine-gauge is appropriate but needs hand-washing or a wool cycle on the machine.
Ascova's V1.0 and V2.0 Cardigan are made in 100% merino wool — the V2.0 specifically in a grade selected for the balance between softness and durability in everyday knitwear use.
When Regular Wool Is the Right Choice
There are contexts where standard wool is a better choice than merino. Very heavy outer layers — overcoats, thick blankets, rugs — benefit from the natural durability and structure of coarser fibres. If the garment is not worn directly against skin, the softness advantage of merino is less relevant, and the durability and cost advantage of regular wool becomes more significant.
For knitwear worn against skin or over a thin layer, the softness difference is immediately noticeable and the premium for merino is consistently worth it for most buyers.